Deer Creek – Squaw Lake
We found our trail legs today. Oh glory! And not a moment too soon, as this would be a long day to position ourselves strategically below Silver pass. The dry air and altitude had given me persistent nosebleed, but we only had so much toilet paper… So every time I blew my nose, my hand would get splattered in red.
“What use is living the life you’ve been given if all you do is stay in one place”
Now in sync, we were out of camp by 07 and hiked in warm layers on a gradual incline until the sun smashed through the trees. A spectacular vista opened up, and we cruised along at training speed while rejoicing in having found our strength at last. 8 km later it was time for breakfast. We felt better than ever, heaving up the mountainside to Purple Lake. I had a moment of urban-tourist weakness and offered a glazed nut to a chipmunk, and it immediately started a massive fight with its two friends. Leave no trace etc, I know. You just try to resist when they cock their little fluffy heads sideways and reach out their tiny arms.
“All your life, you were only waiting for this moment to be free”
On to… Lake Virginia. Encircled by snow-capped mountains, the rippling blue lake with a sandy bottom is the stuff you dream of when you imagine hiking the JMT. I waded into the cool water and just breathed the beauty of this trail life. Of all the places I could possibly be, I am here. Standing in liquid crystal under a blazing sun, on the western spine of America. Wriggling my toes into the sandy bottom. Golden skin, golden light, golden moments in time. Add a lunch tortilla with nut butter and dark chocolate spread – digestible happiness!
I could have stayed forever, but the trail beckoned on up and down switchbacks, spiralling down into Tully Hole. A river winds through an evergreen meadow like a ribbon, while a massive mountain crest shoots into the blue sky. Exhaustion might nip at you, but scenery like this makes up for pretty much everything.
This was our longest day so far, and at the bottom of Tully Hole, surrounded by yet another batch of starving mosquitoes, my body screamed for rest. But even reapplying sunscreen was a lost cause, let alone sitting down to munch an energy bar. We had the choice of almost running onwards or be eaten alive. The hiker autopilot took over as we dragged our deoxygenated legs up, up, up towards Squaw Lake. We hiked hard as the seemingly endless uphill dragged on.
But at long last, we heaved ourselves up to the glistening shores of our home for the night. Silver peak crowned guardian-like over Squaw Lake, and all we could do was turn around and look into the sunset. Everything was bathed in golden light. Nestled in a nook on top of the world we pitched camp and listened to the crickets buzzing like electric currents. The astonishing beauty of the High Sierra took my breath away, and I felt raw power course through my veins. I could do this.
Alpenglow on Silver Peak above Squaw Lake. How can you be happier?
Mitt enda liv