Haute Route Trail Profile
Trail: The Walker’s Haute Route
Where: Switzerland and France, Chamonix to Zermatt
Distance: 220 km
Days on trail: 13 (one rest day)
Grade: Hard
Optimal season: Late June - September
Resupplies: None sent, numerous en route
The trail in a nutshell: The Walker’s Haute Route is an Alps classic which will satisfy any hiker wanting the quintessential European trekking experience. It is the more strenuous cousin of the slightly shorter and more popular Tour du Mont Blanc, which also starts in Chamonix. The WHR takes you past 10 out of the 12 highest peaks in the Alps. The Walker’s Haute Route should not be confused with the Mountaineer’s Haute Route, which is a high-level skiing variation between the same destinations. However, the WHR is still a lofty trail not suitable for those with a fear of heights.
The terrain is generally tough going on well-maintained trails. You can expect at least one mountain pass per day, with approximately 1500 altitude metres gained and lost. But there are also many exposed scrambling sections where you will need to use chains or ropes bolted into the rock. Already on day 1 there are multiple sections with vertically perched ladders. Snow clings stubbornly to some of the scree and boulder sections throughout the year.
While the WHR stays clear of glaciers, it offers several high-level variations. These are marked with white and blue signs which signal the hardest walking grade of Alp trails, while regular hiking trails are marked with white and red (familiar to anyone who has hiked any GR trails). I highly recommend this high-level variation between La Chable to Cabane de Prafleuri on day 4.
Accommodation is a mixture of remote cabins in the high Alps (where the quality of both food and dorms varies tremendously and is not correlated with price) and towns/villages with a selection of hotels and guest houses. You must book your accommodation ahead when hiking in the high season, despite the limitations this imposes on your itinerary. The one surprising tip I would give trekkers is to skip the famous Hotel Weisshorn which is long past its glory days, and instead stay at the stunning, recently refurbished Cabane de Bella Tolla.
The weather on the WHR was much more temperamental than any other thru-hike I’ve done, even though I hiked it in August. We had snow, freezing temperatures, rain, thunderstorms, and sunny days – but fewer of those than I expected. Navigation is made easy with Cicerone’s guidebook by Kev Reynolds and the informative yellow signs usually seen at trail intersections in the Alps.
The main downside to this trek is the extortionate Swiss prices. I walked the WHR with my dad, and there is no way I would have been able to go on my own. This was easily the most expensive thru-hike I’ve ever done relative to distance. Camping would obviously make it cheaper, but it’s technically illegal in the Alps. I would recommend stocking up in supermarkets and making your own food rather than relying on the mountain huts, as what you get for the price is often neither nutritious or delicious.
My blogs for the WHR are quite different from my other trail blogs. Less writing, more pictures. I didn’t have many existential revelations on this trail (aside from reaffirming that solo hiking is my groove), but I hope you enjoy the stunning collection of landscapes that make up this trail. Any questions or feedback can be submitted through the contact form.
