Stunning campsites are some of my best memories from my hikes. Sleeping under the stars, crawling out of my tent into beautiful wilderness, having dinner and making home in the wildest places… Camps are such a big part of any hike, because they are your only home(s) all the while you are on the trail. Everything you need you carry on your back. You decide where home is going to be.
The Te Araroa is an ultra-long-distance trail that takes you through a wide array of landscapes. The Department of Conservation has a vast network of huts (similar to Norway’s DNT) that provide shelter for much of the South Island. I usually camped next to huts if I didn’t sleep in them, I only had the occasional wild camp. Huts are equipped with privies and water tanks, so you can enjoy many civilised camps out there!
I had many cosy hut experiences and wonderful camps in New Zealand. The starry skies in Canterbury are simply unmatched - sometimes you would think it wasn’t even night. Whether you are dreaming of doing the TA or reading this post as a trip down memory lane, I hope you will appreciate these extraordinary sites!
upper travers hut, nelson lakes
Nestled in a lush basin beneath Mount Travers, the roomy Upper Travers Hut was our home for Christmas Eve. We feasted on pizza and cookies after a 31 km hike from St Arnaud. Everyone had icy swims in the river and marvelled at the majestic surroundings that would define all of Nelson Lakes. A christmas to remember.
black rock campsite, queen charlotte track
Day two of the TA. I was still flying on adrenaline and smashed out 28 km in the searing heat. I watched the sun set over the lush Malborough Sounds, in the company of a bunch of giddy hikers from all walks of life. I could not be more excited to take on my NZ adventure, to experience this beauty that would follow me all the way to Bluff.
highland creek hut, motatapu track
Possibly the most stunning hut location on the whole TA. There are no trees in the Motatapus, only golden tussock and endless mountains. The terrain is very demanding, and we hiked in a 40 C heatwave… Highland Hut was only a 6 km hike from the last hut, but we just could not do anymore. Thankfully the hut is clean, new, and hikers can enjoy a blissful swimming hole in the creek just down to the left of the hut.
wild camp in two thumb range
The Two Thumb range was one of my two favourite sections. Big mountains, big skies and big days. On this 11 hr day, we ended up camping on the tussocked plains between Crooked Spur Hut and Stone Hut, exhausted after crossing the flooded Bush Stream and picking our way through the tall grasses and speargrass. A day’s walk from Edoras, this camp was so wild and quiet. At night I woke up to see the stars light up everything in pale blue, and saw Toby standing outside his tent just marvelling at the sight.
Carey’s hut, Mavora Lakes
On the shores of the lake where Sam follows Frodo at the end of The Fellowship of the Ring, sits a lonely hut with mice in the attic. I didn’t hike with my usual companions at this stage, and sat outside in the evening breeze for a long while. For the first time, I felt like the trail was really coming to an end. It was harder to enjoy the days because my final destination was so close. The Mavora Walkway makes for breezy hiking and chill days, a pleasant transition into Southland.
Ahuriri basin, breast hill track
This camp sails on its aestethic merits. It was actually a tough one, scorching hot in the day and wind gusts threatened to tear down my tent all night. But we’d had such a good day, revelling in the gorgeous landscapes coming into Otago, swimming in the Ahuriri River and relaxing in camp for hours in the afternoon. A splendid example of mixed trail blessings!
