The GR20, known as the toughest long-distance trail in Europe, offers spectacular and rugged scenery every single day. You can hike the entire trail without carrying a shelter, as it’s dotted with mountain refuges that provide basic accomodation/tents for rent. These refuges aren’t just nestled on valley floors, but are crammed into mountain outcrops beneath wild-looking crags, you can pitch your tent at the edge of a cliff if you wish. Camping with your own tent costs 7€, and it’s not possible to escape the vigilant wardens patrolling the grounds. The GR20 treated me to some of the most spectacular sunrises and sunsets I’ve ever seen on any trail, and I also enjoyed the community feeling of hikers gathered around the sites. Don’t snooze in the mornings, these places get crowded! I only had one wild camp away from the refuges, but these are a rare treat on the GR20 for several reasons. Technically, wild camping is illegal. The landscape is also so wild that finding a good spot to pitch a tent away from the path is nearly impossible. Lastly, there are very few water sources - and who likes dry camping? Without further ado, here are my favourite camps on the GR20 Corsica!
Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu
This is the camp for sunset worshippers. Piobbu is the first camp for most GR20 hikers, and arriving feels like reaching an oasis in the desert. Tent spots are scattered on a westward-facing hillside, I could see them from almost an hour away. Be sure to grab one of these and not waste away in the forest! It was here I met Lizzie and Michael who would become my trail family, and with tents scattered on almost stair-like outcrops, it’s super easy to get to know your neighbours.
Refuge de Manganu
Probably my favourite of all. Reached after a cruisy beautiful day, the Manganu refuge has a better-than-basic food selection and sits overlooking a grassy valley. Crystal clear pools form in the river next to the refuge, and you can choose between an abundance of cosy camp spots. Each tentsite was nestled on perfectly flat ground in a thicket of lush bushes, making seems seem like little private parking spots. I chose a secluded one next to the river, facing westwards for a gorgeous sunset. Hot showers available and a friendly refuge host!
wild camp near auberge u vallone
Here I was thinking myself so clever for finding an amazing spot to wild camp… Turned out the refuge was right around the corner. Oh well, still saved me 7€! This gorgeous nook was flanked by the craggy peaks of Ravin de Stranciacone, and I was treated to a full moon that night. All afternoon I swam in an emerald pool which I had all to myself, complete with waterfall for massage effect! After an insanely tough day traversing the Monte Cinto massif, it felt good to retreat into solitude and watch the clouds drift by over the mountaintops.
refuge de petra piana
Nestled on an outcrop beneath the summit of A Manaccia, the refuge is a splendid view in itself. You can pitch your tent in sheltered or exposed spots depending on how much sunset you’d like. Like Manganu, the tentsites were ringed by rocks and bushes – offering privacy, but not much wriggle room for bigger tents. Perhaps not so strategically, my tent was in the middle of a pool of these spots, so I had to hop by two other tents to get to it. Whops! I spent almost a half day here and enjoyed it to the fullest, it was my last camp on the wild northern section. The water source is also an attraction in itself… And an added benefit: they take credit cards – which might come in handy, as PP is also known for bad dinners. PP is rumoured to be the coldest refuge, prone to whiteout mist. But the night I was there it was as warm as any Mediterranean mountain eve.